Telfar kicked off fashion week in Paris showing at the Le Cigale theater which is now a night club. The sun was shining, the air cool and dry–a perfect autumn day in this most beautiful of cities. I arrived early to shoot street style and there was already a crowd outside, and a buzz in the air and one could sense the energy that accompanies the start of the season. This was Telfar’s first time showing in Paris and it was quite the debut.
The show opened with Telfar’s short film “The World Isn’t Everything” which he created with playwright Jeremy O. Harris as well as Ashton Sanders, Kelsey Lu and Petra Collins. The film was stark and lush at the same time and played for the entirety of the show. Specializing in leisurewear that is decidedly non gender specific, this seasons collection pushed the boundaries of conventional sportswear while creating approachable pieces that still make a statement.
The collection played heavily into the utilitarian trend which is big for SS2020; featuring hybrid two-toned cargo jean pants, an acid like wash trucker jacket, hunting vests with over-sized pockets, and sleeveless military style shirts acting as a counterpart to the sporty workout gear elements such as the cut-out soccer pants, joggers, running jackets, and eights era gym shorts. Some unexpected components were sprinkled throughout the lineup expressed in one shouldered crop tops, a button down graphic t-shirt hybrid, and Budweiser emblazoned pieces.
There was also a noticeably seventies aspect to the lineup with form fitting knit tops featuring front zippered closures, a rose colored leisure suit, and a golden striped graphic that appeared on a number of pieces and lent an air of nostalgia to the lineup. Rounding out the collection were roomy trenches, an assortment of man-tailored shirts, and the trademark Telfar bags with their interlocking T and C. The show ended with the models breaking from their ranks and dancing in spontaneous joy, quickly joined by the designer himself and tentatively by attendees at first but eventually with equal abandon, marking the kickoff of PFW with quite the celebratory tone.
Tp see more from the show head to Vogue.com