The next show I attended was Katty Xiomara’s show at Pier 59 Studios. The show fell between the two Nolcha shows, and luckily Pier 59 Studios are across the street from Beam. Granted the “street” we had to cross was more like a freeway and it was 23 degrees with gale force winds, so even this was a challenge. But an Uber to go a block and half that would have been cray cray.
So we braved the weather and stumbled and blew our way in to Pier 59 Studios. The show more or less started on time which was a good thing as we had to return to Beam for the second set of runway shows. Katty Xiomara actually use to walk in the Nolcha shows, but is starting to more into the more established arena’s and not considered up and coming any more.
A Portuguese designer known for creating unexpected silhouettes with a strong emphasis on tailoring and richly textured fabrics, Katty Xiomara created an excuisite collation featuring layers of tulle and sheer fabrics often worn over distressed metallic creations like a man tailored shirt dress and iridescent glitter slip frocks.
Coats with missing sleeves, puffed sleeves, wraps, and topped by capes as well two tier sleeved man tailored shirts also help to create this left of center feeling of dissection.
The more flowing and feminine pieces juxtaposed against non body-con constructed garments. Giving the line up a fresh, contemporary edge, while also retaining classical components like traditional collars, wrap dresses, and high-waisted wide-legged pants.
You also find an element of deconstructionism with a rough hewn metal finished textile featuring patches of what can only be described as exposed velvet. Coats with missing sleeves, puffed sleeves, wraps, and topped by capes as well two tier sleeved man tailored shirts also help to create this left of center feeling of dissection.
Though this deconstructed element is balanced by overtly feminine themes expressed in clingy glittering pussy bow blouses, asymmetrical ruffled frocks and slinky slip dresses in all manner of sparkly, luminous fabrics. As well as a more earthy touch showing up in an engineered print with a whimsical wood cut aesthetic with a distant folklore feel to it.
A nocturnal menagerie of crescent moons, stars, and wide-eyed owls appear on ankle length cape coats, fitted riding-trousers, pleated skirts and ruffled mini shorts lending a quietly mysterious air to an out of the box, yet approachable collection that is a true celebration of the feminine mystic.
Images by Foto Ugo Camera and ALLIE NYC